So Kamat’s isn’t technically new, but did anyone living on the east side really trek all the way out to Zhongguancun to eat at the previous location? We didn’t think so. And we’re glad Kamat decided to come to us, moving from the Haidian wasteland to the heart of urban civilization, right above Paddy O’Shea’s. In contrast to the dark bar downstairs, the second-floor restaurant is brightly lit and plays Bollywood music videos, not rugby matches. Paddy’s patrons can order the curries from the bar, though, as well as a range of standard Western bar food also made in Kamat’s kitchen.
The food is definitely spicy, even dishes like saag paneer (spinach and cheese, ¥42) and vegetable biryani (vegetables and rice, ¥38) that are usually safe, mild bets. We didn’t mind the spice, though, as our friendly waitresses were always on call to bring another round of lassis. The mango lassi (¥25) is perfectly thick and naturally sweet, but we were really won over by the salted lassi (¥22), which also boasts an ideal consistency and pleasurable, slightly sour flavor that douses any flames from the food. Our favorite dish was the mild lamb nargisi kofta (¥48), tender balls of ground lamb and cashews, beautifully served with two “chef’s secret” sauces, one nutty and one more spicy and tangy. Order some naan (¥8) and paratha (¥10) breads to wipe your plates clean.
For dessert, don’t miss out on the gajian halwa (¥20). It’s made mainly from grated carrots, so you can convince yourself easily that you’re ordering something healthy. The almost disconcertingly bright orange dish is beautifully aromatic and delicately sweet—far exceeding our expectations for a vegetable.